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Management of the Oar

The rower should, as far as possible, take some good oarsman for his model, and endeavour to imitate him in every respect, which is the only mode of acquiring a good style. Description is useful in putting the learner in the way of acquiring what is to be taught, but it is not all-sufficient for the purpose. In the first place, the learner should place himself square on the seat, with his feet straight before him, and the toes slightly turned out. The knees may either be kept together, in the Newcastle or Clasper style, or separated considerably, as practised generally in England, the latter being in my opinion the better mode, as it allows the body to come more forward over the knees. The feet are to be placed firmly against the stretcher, which is to be let out or shortened, to suit the length of the individual; and one foot may be placed in the strap which is generally attached to the stretcher in modern boats. The oar is then taken in hand, raising it by the handle, and then either at once placing it in the rowlock, or else first dropping it flat on the water, and then raising the handle it may gently be lowered to its place. The hands should both grasp the oar tightly, one hand at a, the other at b, the thumbs being underneath the handle of the oar, not above it. Sit straight and upright, not lolling over the seat either forward or backward. When leaning forward to the stroke, separate the knees a little, and keep the arms straight, and do not move your hands at all, so that, when the arms are extended, the knuckles will be uppermost. Put the oar into the water when you have stretched forward as far as you can, and do this without splashing. Let the blade dip "crisply" and easily into the water. Then throw your shoulders back and pull the hands home close to the body just below the waist, elbows close to the sides. By keeping your hands tightly on the oar and pulling back, you will find the knuckles will naturally come down and the finger-tips up. Thus by dropping the wrist neatly you will feather the oar without all that excessive wrist action which is so wearisome to a novice. Mind you pull hard from start to finish, and if you can continue the pull with the outside hand close to the side, you will get a longer stroke. Bring the oar out of the water smoothly and "cleanly," but do not jerk it up, nor pull in "fits and starts." All rowing should be done regularly, in "time," and no good oarsman will pull himself back with his head in the air. Pull as far back as you can effectively, but if you go too far, you lose "time," and the boat will roll from side to side as you resume your "pull." Rowing is done from the waist; the seat and legs should be firm as possible, else the boat will roll. In "backing water" the reverse of these actions takes place. The oar is first reversed in the rowlock, and then it is pushed through the water with as much power as is needed, and pulled through the air. When the oars on one side are pulled, and those on the other are backed, the boat is made to turn on its own water. "Holding water" is effected by the oars being held in the position of backing without moving them.