The Tartans of Scottish Clans

The use of the Tartan, or chequered cloth, among the Celtic tribes is of great antiquity. The period of its adoption is a matter of dispute; but the origin of the picturesque Highland garb is easily traced. The custom of tattooing the skin and the use of war-paint antedates the wearing of clothing. Julius Caesar, 55 B. C., found the bodies of the Britons so adorned. When the use of bodily attire was adopted, this color-loving people naturally dyed the cloth, which they made from the wool of their flocks, with the vegetable dyes of their country. Every tribe had its own weavers and dyers, and they naturally used the colors prevailing in their own district. So the Tartans came, in time, to represent so closely the flora of Scotland that the tribes, when attacked upon their surroundings. Distinctive Clan Tartans were of later date; but in general the green and black, with purple or yellow interlines, belonged to the Western Clans; the red and yellow to the Eastern districts; while the black and white, or gray and black, the somber plaids, belonged to the Scottish Lowlanders. In the highlands and the islands there were about forty distinct Clans, with several remnants of broken Clans or septs. Each Clan possessed three distinguishing tokens apart from the surname; these were the sprig of some plant worn in the bonnet; the "slogan," or war-cry; and the "tartan." Originally the "tartan," a piece of chequered cloth, was wrapped loosely around the body, as the blanket of Red Indians; but as civilization advanced the philabeg, or kilt, with the plaid thrown over the shoulders, was adopted. The feet covered with pieces of hide (tied with a thong), called "Brogues." The trews, or close-fitting trowsers, made of the tartan, were worn by those of higher birth. Shoes and hose of tartan are of comparatively modern date, as is also the coat of dark color with which the upper part of the body and arms are now clothed. The "bonnet" has been for ages a part of the Highland costume. The Scots continued the "bonnet" long after the English had laid it aside; hence the cry, "All the Blue Bonnets are over the Border" meant an invasion of England by the Highland Clans. And another war cry, "The Campbells are coming, O, ho! O, ho!" also meant a rising of the Clans. The "Highland bonnet" was a full round or peaked cap, with a border of tartan. The Chief always wore two eagle feathers in his hat besides the clan-sprig; the heavy black plume is entirely modern. The "sporran" was an important feature of the Highland costume, made of the skin of a fox or other small animal, with the fur on the outside and numerous pockets on the inside. It was highly ornamented, and was worn in front and fastened with a belt around the waist. The "dorlach," for small arms, hung at the side. This ancient garb, improved and modernized by the Highland regiments of to-day, is one of the most picturesque and graceful costumes to be seen in any part of the world.